WHAT! MY DOG NEEDS GROOMING?
"Grooming"
conjures up pictures of expensive salons for poodles or Shih Tzus
or images of the prestigious Westminster Kennel Club dog show.
The family Sassy or Freckles or Lad certainly doesn't need fancy
haircuts or expensive baths with hot oil treatments. However,
failing to groom the dog is akin to neglecting to comb a child's
hair and wash behind his ears.
A long-coated dog should have her hair brushed
and combed several times each week. A double-coated dog should
have dead hair combed from the coat to hasten shedding and prevent
hairy tumbleweeds from infesting the house. Even a short-coated
dog should be brushed or rubbed down a couple of times a week
to keep skin and coat healthy.
Much grooming can be done at home. A brush suitable
for the dog's particular coat; a fine-toothed comb for soft, silky
hair and flea control; a rubber mitt or coarse washcloth for short
coats are minimal tools necessary for the job. Owners who can
manage may also want a pair of clippers for trimming dog toenails.
The first step in home grooming is to teach the
dog to accept the attention. The best strategy is to start when
the pet is a puppy, teaching him to accept the handling of all
his body parts and to stand and lie on his side by command. Use
hands, a soft brush, or a coarse washcloth to groom a puppy. If
the puppy has a tough time staying still, place a mat on the kitchen
table for traction and work with the pup on the mat.
If the pup has grown up ungroomed, he can still
be taught to stand or lie still and accept this necessary attention.
As with any training effort, you will often need more patience
to teach shy or fearful dogs than confident or dominant dogs.
Treats work really well teaching any dog to lie or stand still.
When grooming a dog with a tangled coat, work
gently to avoid irritating the skin. Comb the outside of the tangle,
gently progressing towards the skin, just as you would comb a
child's snarled hair. Spray in a bit of cream rinse as you are
working on a matt. If the coat is severely tangled or matted,use
some baby oil, work in short sessions and praise the dog frequently
for accepting the sometimes irritating or painful combing. Or
consider taking the pooch to a professional for an evaluation
of his condition and possible clipping. if your dog is resisting
then use treat and reward non pulling away..For being still.
Dogs may shed dead hairs continuously, particularly
in dry winter household heat. Double-coated dogs generally shed
massive amounts of hair twice a year. Undercoat shedding often
begins on the haunches and proceeds forward until the entire coat
has molted. You may notice a dullness to the hair before the tufts
begin to emerge from the coat. Full shedding can take a month
or more, particularly in the heavy coated breeds.
Be prepared
All dogs need grooming, but some dogs need more
grooming than others.
Some Dog owners don’t realize that their
dog should be combed frequently and completely to prevent kinks
and knots caused by intertwining of hairs or by dirt, grit, or
vegetative matter in the coat. Mats can pull tender skin and cause
pain and lead to hot spots or wounds to irritated skin and eventual
infection, general skin outbreaks, or fungus or insect invasion.
Shaving may be the only solution for felted mats,
but it must be done carefully to avoid nicking the dog or further
irritating already inflamed skin.
Breeds that need frequent grooming to prevent
mats and keep their coats healthy include Cocker Spaniel, Afghan
Hound, Otterhound, Bernese Mountain Dog, Great Pyrenees, Newfoundland,
Golden Retrievers, Samoyed, long-coated St. Bernard, Maltese,
English Toy Spaniel, Pomeranian, Shih Tzu, Yorkshire Terrier,
Silky Terrier, Australian Terrier, Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier,
Bichon Frisé, Chow Chow, Keeshond, Tibetan Spaniel, Tibetan
Terrier, Finnish Spitz, American Eskimo, Bearded Collie, Belgian
Tervuren, Old English Sheepdog, Collie, Briard, and Shetland Sheepdog.
However, all dogs need some grooming. Although they are unlikely
to develop mats or tangles — except around the ears or on
the feathered legs of some breeds — medium-coated and short-coated
dogs do need periodic grooming to keep coats and skin healthy.
Grooming during shedding helps move the process along, lessen
the hairy tumbleweeds in the family room, and encourage the growth
of new coat.
Start with puppies
Good grooming habits begin with puppy care. All
puppies should be taught to sit, stand, or lie down to have their
bodies checked over and their hair combed. using treats help this
process. Reward good behavior! I sometimes smear a bit of peanut
butter on a surface close to where the puppy is standing so he
is busy licking this while I’m combing & brushing him.
Grooming provides bonding time. In the wild, wolves
and other canines groom each other as part of the social interaction
of the pack or family group. Dog incisors (the front teeth) are
an effective comb; the little nibbles they etch on the bodies
of pack mates stimulate the skin and have a calming effect. Puppy
owners can also use grooming as pleasurable time with their new
family member.
Tools
Pet supply stores & Pet catalogs have a dizzying
variety of tools and products to assist in dog grooming. There
are combs with fine teeth, combs with medium teeth, and combs
with coarse teeth, combs with handles and without. There are brushes
with short metal pins, brushes with slanted metal pins, brushes
with flexible plastic pins, oval-shaped brushes and rectangular
brushes. There are shedding blades for thick-coated dogs that
shed gobs of undercoat and nubby gloves for smooth-coated breeds.
There are 100’s of shampoos and rinses and
gels and whiteners and conditioners and supplements to clean and
soften coats. Look for the ones that are tealess and NonAnimal
tested. Ones that are environmentally safe!!
A basic home grooming kit for a long-coated dog
should include a soft wire slicker brush, a comb that has both
fine and coarse teeth, a Universal brush and mat comb for dealing
with the tangles that do form, and an oil-based conditioner that
is applied before brushing or combing the coat. The mat comb has
long teeth that are inserted into the mat rocked in a sawing motion
to loosen the hairs.
A kit for medium-coated or short-coated dogs should
include a slicker brush or flexible-pin brush. Bony dogs should
be brushed with a soft brush or one with blunt bristles. Feathery
hairs on the legs, ears, and tail should be combed. A nubby glove
or coarse rag is suitable for grooming faces and for stimulating
the skin and conditioning the coat on short-coated dogs.
Bathing
Your dog doesn’t need frequent baths. In
fact, frequent baths can dry the natural oils in canine skin and
lead to constant scratching, which in turn can lead to bacterial
infections and oozing hot spots. For dogs that get bathed more
than once a month, aloe-based shampoos and coat conditioners and
foods and supplements with Omega fatty acids help maintain coat
oils and skin health.
Before bathing, clear any mats or tangles from
your dog's coat. Teach him to stand in the tub, then soak with
warm or tepid water. (water to cold and they will resist) Soak
him to the skin, lather, then rinse thoroughly to prevent dull,
sticky coat and dry skin. Take care to keep water and soap out
of his eyes and ears and clean his face and the insides of her
ears with a sponge or washcloth. ( you can put a little vasiline
around the eyes and cottonballs into the ears canals.)
Daily Examination
Even if your dog doesn’t need daily grooming,
check her thoroughly to make sure she has no cuts, sores, fleas,
rashes, bumps, ticks, or hitchhikers in her coat or dirt in her
ears. Remove fleas with a fine-toothed comb and drop them into
a container of soapy water. Remove embedded ticks with tweezers
or protected fingers and drop them in a vial of alcohol. (Grasp
the tick body, rock it back and forth, then pull firmly.) Carefully
remove vegetative matter such as grass awns, seed casings, or
thorny twigs with fingers or comb.
During this daily exam, check your dogs feet and
ears, look at her teeth, and feel for cuts or tumors.
Shedding
Dog hair grows and dies just as human hair does.
Some dogs — particularly hard-coated terriers and Poodles
— hang on to their dead hair, thus requiring special grooming
to remove it. Other dogs give it up quite readily, all over the
house. Double-coated dogs generally drop their soft undercoats
twice a year and lose their guard hairs once a year, although
some individual dogs might shed constantly or only every 10-12
months. Shedding can take anywhere from three weeks to two months.
A warm bath helps accelerate the process and daily (or twice-daily)
grooming can help control clouds of hair that scurry into corners
and under furniture.
Shedding is controlled by hormonal changes that
are tied to photoperiod (day length) and is influenced by level
of nutrition and general state of health. In addition to natural
biennial shedding, a dog may drop its coat after surgery, x-rays
under anesthesia, and whelping puppies.
Double-coated dogs that shed heavily are Akita,
Alaskan Malamute, Keeshond, Siberian Husky, Samoyed, Norwegian
Elkhound, Collie, Great Pyrenees, Kuvasz, Newfoundland, St. Bernard,
English Toy Spaniel, Pomeranian, Belgian Sheepdog, Belgian Malinois,
Belgian Tervuren, Australian Shepherd, German Shepherd, Smooth
Collie, Shetland Sheepdog, and American Eskimo. The Dalmatian
sheds constantly, and many dogs shed a moderate amount of hair.
Owners should be aware before purchase that a
long-coated dog, purebred or mixed, will require grooming throughout
its life. If the inclination to groom or the time to do so are
not part of the plan, provisions should be made for professional
coat care for the dog. Otherwise, a dog that can do with a lick
and a promise is a better choice as a family pet.
Skin
Healthy skin is certainly a consideration for
a well-groomed dog, and healthy skin begins with a good diet.
Again, the choices are legion. The rule of thumb is thus: If your
dog does well on the food you buy, if his skin and coat are healthy,
if he has energy and enjoys life, if he is maintaining his optimum
weight, if his intestines are working well, if the food is highly
digestible and thus leaves little manure to clean up, keep on
keepin' on. But if the dog's energy level is low, if his coat
is dull and his skin dry and itchy or sore, if a vet check shows
no thyroid or other medical condition to account for the anomalies,
consider switching the diet or supplementing with fatty acids.
Grooming is essential for healthy skin, not so
much for keeping it clean, but for making the owner aware of any
problems that may be developing. Flea allergies can cause severe
skin problems, so daily examination of the dog during flea season
is a must. Contact allergies can also cause skin to break out.
Irritated skin leads to scratching, which can open the skin to
staphylococcus infections. An ounce of prevention is definitely
worth a pound of cure for the dog and the pocketbook the antibiotics
for skin infections are among the most expensive medications,
and the cost of treatment can be dollars a day for a couple of
weeks or longer. Skin irritations and infections can crop up overnight,
so keep a close eye on the situation. Groom daily for fleas and
ticks if Lad has had a problem. Use a fine-toothed comb to check
for fleas, then flick the tiny insects into a container of warm,
soapy water. Remove ticks with protected fingers and drop in a
vial of alcohol. Treat the house for fleas as well; modern controls
for these pests use genetically altered natural insecticides,
growth inhibitors, and drying agents that are both environmentally
friendly and less toxic to people and pets.
Ears
All dogs should have their ears checked periodically.
Dogs with droop ears are especially susceptible to fungus and
bacterial infections and should be checked at least weekly. Veterinarians
can prescribe cleaning agents for ears to dry them out. Baby wipes
work really well for cleaning out the ear (non alcohol). Don’t
worry about the ear drum, you can go down really far with your
finger with out worry of reaching the ear drum.
Infected ears can also lead to further complications.
Not only is the dog painfully uncomfortable, he may cause a hematoma
by breaking a blood vessel while shaking his head in response
to the discomfort. The hematoma may dissipate on its own if Rover
stops shaking his head -- or it may grow and require lancing and
stitching.
Feet
Dogs should have their toenails cut every two
to three weeks. A dog that wiggles during toenail clipping will
sooner or later be nipped to the quick, and the next time the
clippers come out of the closet, he'll head for the hills. So
teach the dog to stand or sit still and offer his paw, clip a
tiny bit off each nail a couple of days in a row, or have the
vet or groomer do the job.
Dog nails have a quick that can be seen as a darkening
of light-colored nails but is invisible on dark nails. The quick
has a nerve and blood supply; nicking the quick not only hurts
the dog, it causes profuse bleeding, so keep a quick stop product
on hand or use flour or cornstarch to stem the tide.
Include an examination of the dog's feet into
a grooming session to make sure there is nothing stuck between
the pads. Seeds from some grasses can stab into the pad, pebbles
can get stuck, chemicals used on lawns can burn, and fungus can
cause irritation, which leads to licking, which can lead to hot
spots and infection.
A home-grooming session can be a bond to the dog-owner
relationship. Dogs naturally groom each other to reinforce pack
behavior and show subordination., and you can take advantage of
this behavior. Spend 10-20 minutes every day or two, depending
on the dog and the season of the year, and you'll increase the
bond with your pet immeasurably along with insuring that you'll
keep his skin and coat healthy and be aware of any subtle changes
in condition.
Choosing a groomer
If you decide that you have neither the time,
inclination or physical ability to groom your dog, lebonan has
many professional groomers who can do the job. But the choice
is far more complex than a digital walk through the Yellow Pages.
Selection of a groomer should be done with at least as much care
as choice of a barber or hair stylist, for you must be pleased
with the results of the "haircut" and the dog must be
treated with care while at the shop.
Many veterinarians have incorporated grooming
into their clinics, so you may start there. If your veterinarian
is not associated with a groomer, he may have a list of recommended
groomers. Other sources of recommendations include friends who
own pets, boarding kennels that don't have their own grooming
service, pet supply stores, shelters, and purebred breeders.
If you own a Poodle or a terrier, the selection
may be a bit more difficult, for these breeds have special grooming
requirements that take more time and expertise.
After getting some recommendations, make a few
telephone calls and ask questions about services and costs, pick-up
and delivery, and use of tranquilizers to calm the dog. Most good
reputable groomers will not use tranquilizers; however they will
handle a dog that has been tranquilized by the veterinarian if
they know that the drug has been given. If your dog is geriatric
or has a chronic medical problem, ask about special handling.
Visit the groomers who answered your questions
without the dog. Make sure the shop is well-lit, that the groomer
and assistants handle the dogs gently, that old or arthritic dogs
are treated with special consideration, and that the shampoos
and flea and tick products meet your needs.
If the shop is part of a boarding kennel, find
out what vaccinations the kennel requires. If routine vaccinations,
including Bordatella, are not required, be aware that Your Pooch
may bring home more than a new hairdo.
The owner's responsibility
Here are some hints to make a trip to the groomer easier on
both you and your dog:
1.Teach the Dog to stand on cue to accept the attentions
of a stranger without cringing or growling. I always treat
or play ball during and after grooming my own dogs. Obedience
classes are wonderful for this good manners exercise, which
is an integral part of the Canine Good Citizen test.
2.Comb and brush your dog regularly to prevent tangles and
mats. Schedule more frequent visits to the groomer if you prefer
not to do this. Matted hair can cause great pain to the dog
and to the groomer who gets bitten because Fido is in pain
from tangled locks. YOU need to understand that if the dog
comes home shaved it’s YOUR fault for not keeping dog’s
coat in good condition.
3.Crate train your dog so she'll sit quietly while drying and
waiting for your return.
4.Warn the groomer of any bad habits that could interfere with
successful grooming. If your dog hates grooming and is likely
to bite, tell the groomer so she can take precautions, so use
a muzzle. If your dog is prone to seizures or has
a heart problem or if she has arthritis, or if she is extremely
fearful, ask the vet if you should be taking the dog to the
groomers.
A groomer is not a miracle worker. She cannot take a poorly
maintained dog coat and turn it into a show-stopper in one visit.
You should maximize your chances of satisfaction by teaching
the dog to accept the attentions of strangers and keeping the
coat free of mats and tangles.
Preparing dog/puppy for the Vet:
Nail
Trimming for Sensitve Dogs
The
Veterinary Olympics
Preparing
for the Vet
NEW! Doggie
Nail File
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